By Alexa Chipman Mar. 12, 2017
Using the methode champenoise with mead is extremely rare, so when I found that Heidrun was a quick jaunt toward the coast, it was an exciting surprise. I did not know what to expect, since mead is usually a sweet syrup texture, and I discovered that changing it into sparkling infuses a dryness with intense flavor.
Heidrun Meadery is twenty years old, and has recently concentrated on their Point Reyes Station farm and honey cultivation after relocating to West Marin. Honey is heavily influenced by surrounding flora, so keeping a local hive is essential, although they also bring honey in from other locations, such as Oregon and Hawaii. Their picnic area is limited, on a first-come, first-served basis, and offers views of quaint farm buildings and distant meadows stretching toward Point Reyes Station.
I tried their $15 tasting flight in the greenhouse, which is an airy room filled with plants and warm filtered sunlight. They were quite busy, so the mead was presented without comment or background, and I had to hunt down where to find palette cleansing water glasses, but reservations are available for an in depth tour of the facility that goes into detail about the remarkable process used at Heidrun.
Hawaiian Macadamia Nut
This was my choice from the flight to purchase; it has a dainty crispness to it with almond after note; the flavor is reminiscent of an older oaked chardonnay.
Oregon Meadowfoam Blossom
The bubbles create a slosh of honey that lingers—flowery at first, gradating into a softer sweet finish.
Oregon Radish Blossom
Very pale with a green tinge and definite radish aroma, it has a sharp quality and slightly bitter aftertaste. This mead would be a powerful choice for toasting a special occasion, but not one I would set the table with for dinner.
Madras Carrot Blossom
I was not fond of the overwhelming tangy flavor. The color is a lovely sunset orange that would look amazing in a trumpet flute, but I am not sure I would want to revisit the taste.
California Orange Blossom
This delightfully floral mead has a gentle nudge of honey under a carpet of blossoms drifting across the palette. If you love floral flavors in wine, this is a must try. I think it would be the perfect choice paired with a white cake decorated in edible flowers for a wedding or birthday.
I highly recommend Heidrun Meadery’s refreshingly unique approach to an ancient libation. It does not have the dense saccharine quality of regular mead, so if you are hesitant to try a tasting, know that the sparkling version shakes off those negative qualities for a refreshing frothy taste that melts in your mouth.